DAY 33: JULY 3: KIRKSVILLE (MO) TO QUINCY (IL)

Time Zone : Central (GMT -6)
Todays Distance: 86 miles
Cycling time: 7 hrs 41 mins
Average Speed: 11.2 mph
Today’s cumulative ascent: 3713 ft

Average Heart rate: 98 bpm

Distance so far: 2407 miles

Ascent so far: 81,737 ft.
Centuries so far: 6
Punctures so far: 4

Today’s Profile:

Today’s Route:
Dedication: Today is for Aristar, Barishan, Sumarlang, Banrilang and all the children in Providence who have had an influence on me since 1999.

Our last day in Missouri and crossing the mighty Mississippi and the first of cycling in the rain.

Eventually it had to happen. We have had so many escapes and near misses no one really blamed the elements. Even as we loaded after breakfast the rain was falling heavily and showing no sign of letting up. But the show must go on and everyone dressed accordingly for what might be a long uncomfortable day. I wore bootees over the cycling shoes and they helped a lot. At least the rain wasn’t running down my socks into the shoe. Normally at home I wouldn’t go out in such conditions even though I ofted would be caught out in heavy rain. No room for choices this morning.
However as we moved through Kirksville even though I was getting wet there was heat in the air (almost 70 degrees) and that eased the discomfort. Not near as bad as cold winter rain. No point in worrying about whether I was keeping dry or not. (See Heard Today). The sky was heavy all around and earlier the TV Weather Channel had been giving reports of heavy rains overnight.
Twenty minutes after departing the rain eased off and it got a bit cooler. Roads were still wet and brakes wouldn’t be as dependable as usual. No point in putting them to the test unnecessarily.
I decided to cycle with the more sedate element (3 of us) with no place for heroics in these conditions. I knew it would take longer but no point in arriving at the motel dead on time. So gradually the rain gear came off although the day never reached high temperatures…. stayed more or less in the 70’s all day.
The route today wasn’t extraordinary. Not as much grain but plenty of soya and corn. Meadowland was extensive and a fair amount of stock in fields and in yards. In some cases, I was glad there was a strong fence between them and the camera (and cameraman). Again the first half of the day was over rolling hills..up then down then up again etc. Just keep the head down, pedal on and don’t assume this is the last one.
Hay in round bales mostly was common with many wrapped and lined up in the farm yards. Apparently the rain came suddenly yesterday evening with tractor and all abandoned in the field like the Marie Celeste. No hay making today and none tomorrow either…. Independence Day

We kept off busy Highway 6 and passed through some very small towns or cities according to the limit sign complete with the population. Williamstown could have been busier where we made a brief stop. All shops seemed empty except the Post Office and that wasn’t open. Gas station didn’t have customers for years and only a lonely drinks machine on the forecourt. Adair was a pretty little place with a scenic church …. sounds familiar. We had our first SAG in Baring and the local bank building, Baring’s Bank was in ruins …. sounds familiar also. All human life is here.
After 82 miles we dropped down to the Mississippi and came face to face with the millions of sand bags built up as a levee. Levels are dropping back by now but all the signs are still there … silt on the road.
The corn down here on the low ground is thriving on the moisture in the ground and it is more advanced than anything else we’ve seen. Earlier in the day we came on fields that were under water near the Fabius River which we criss-crossed many times.
Usually this cycle crosses the Mississippi on a ferry. The river can be a mile wide in places. But the ferries are not running and will not be for another three months. The bridges … two in Quincy have no shoulder and are very busy with all the trucks. Cycling across would be reckless so the SAG wagons shuttled us across in groups from Taylor. It did mean a wait for the wagon to return but it afforded the opportunity to relax … it was now 4 pm.
Front wheels were whipped off the bikes, loaded up on top and then the short run over the Centennial Bridge (south) into Quincy. It is a massive river and running fast. You could just imagine the devastation when the levees gave way. The down-side of the shuttle across was that we passed the ‘Welcome to Illinois’ sign. Pity to have missed that photo opportunity. Wheels back on to the bikes in a flash and just about 5 more miles to go.
Now we were definitely on the eastern side of the US.Would it be different? How would it be different? Within 10 minutes I noticed that traffic was more cut-throat and less cautious than before. At lights cars cut across in front if there was the slightest gap; one pick-up truck driver pulled out sharply in front of me causing me to swerve sharply (and shout) to avoid a collision; another car as it passed was heard to shout ‘get off the road’ at us. It really put us on guard rather quickly. We’ll definitely start cautiously tomorrow.
Our group, now swollen to four, arrived at the motel at 4.20 pm and it was nice to have a hot shower before Route Rap. Dinner was at a Chinese Buffet and it was lovely. I’m not into Chinese food but I ate what I liked and I liked what I ate. I couldn’t name what I had but it was delicious. Wouldn’t mind if we go Chinese again.

Enjoyed the day. The countryside didn’t present anything exotic but still plenty to be noted. Would have loved to actually cycle over the Mississippi but that is secondary to safety. And all keyed up for tomorrow. Still as eager for the bike each morning as at the early stages. I had expected a drudge-factor to enter the scene at some point but no sign of it yet. Hope I don’t have to eat my words.
Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

Heard Today: As consolation when setting out in the rain ‘ Remember, you can only get soaked once’