Todays Distance: 82 miles
Cycling time: 5 hrs 19 mins
Average Speed: 15.3 mph
Today’s cumulative ascent: 1964 ft
Average Heart rate: 120 bpm
Distance so far: 3327 miles
Ascent so far: 105,095 feet.
Centuries so far: 12
Punctures so far: 7
Ascent so far: 105,095 feet.
Centuries so far: 12
Punctures so far: 7
Today’s Profile:
Today’s Route:
First day back in the saddle after our final Rest Day. Felt good. A short day after the run of centuries and a new state.
Providence[3] Most of the pupils walk long journeys to and from Providence each day in all kinds of weather (including monsoon) along roads and paths that are busy and far from pedestrian friendly. Often footwear is flimsy and when necessary towels and dry clothes are provided when they arrive.

At 7.30 am as Erie was well awake and on the move we cycled eastward along the southern shore of Lake Erie. Erie (pop 200,000) is in the industrial rust-belt but is now turning to tourism. It is twinned with Dungarvan – Molly Brannigan’s may have had something to do with that! It was good to be back in harness again for the final section – the Eastern States. But also a need for greater concentration. Would be tragic if something happened at this stage. Most mountain accidents happen on the way down. The trip is not finished at the summit but when back home safely. Weather was pleasant all day with a very slight headwind but the heat never became overpowering.
Still plenty of grapes growing on both sides of the road. Gary (CA) was throwing an expert eye on the crop and explaining the growing process. Tractors were out trimming the sides of the vines to allow the grapes to get the sunlight better. The vines were with us all day.
Again I started at my own pace but joined in with two different groups for periods of the day. Two more from Trinidad have joined us for this last section to Portsmouth. From the SAG till the end I pushed on at a good strong pace.
Punctures were a feature of the day again but, thankfully, I escaped. Actually, my front wheel was almost flat at loading time but it got a full 100 lbs pressure and was operational for the day. Perhaps the valve was just taking a Rest Day like myself and released a little pressure. John (LA) who joined us in Indianapolis had three flats before the SAG. I’ve heard of two others also, one had a nail through the tyre, the tube and the steel rim. If there’s any good place to have to replace a tube, it must be beside a field of grapes.
Although we cycled for the day along the southern edge of Lake Erie it wasn’t always in view. It was a field or two away or just appearing through the trees occasionally. To look at , it was like looking out from the east coast of Ireland. Nothing to be seen but the flat horizon. It is 50 miles wide just like Ireland to Wales. Today it was perfectly calm but in winter it freezes over when day temperatures scarcely exceed –15C. The fact that it is relatively shallow (average of 62 feet) contributes to this. In winter when the cold north winds blow over the warm waters it results in lake-effect snow in Buffalo and the south shore. In winter 2007/2008 this area had 3 metres of snow.
At twenty miles we came to the stateline with New York. Another state and very few left. All groups stopped for the compulsory photo and I was with a group of 6 at that stage. New York state is almost double the size of Ireland in size and is the largest producer of cabbage in the USA. These things are important to know. All except the greater New York City metropolitan area is referred to as Upstate and our route will be across the upper end of that roughly following the course of the Erie Canal.
One could get geographically confused with the names of places on the route or near the route. What part of the world are we in? Names like Dunkirk, Barcelona, Angola, Boston, Versailles, Hamburg and tomorrow there is a list of more familiar placenames. At Barcelona Harbour we had the opportunity to go down to a pier on the lakeshore. It looked so pleasant and peaceful. There were other signposts that caught my eye.
Along the road I saw so many premises offering duty-free cigarettes and gas. Gas at $3.99. I went into a gas station/truck stop to look for post-cards but the whole shop apart from the check-out was just cigarettes from floor to ceiling in cartons. And we were not exactly on the Canadian border. Afterwards I found out that this was an Indian reservation and duties are not charged there on the mentioned commodities. . That’s the place to stock up. For the last week I am finding it impossible to find postcards. In the early weeks every convenience store and gas station had a good selection. Tried in stores around the motel this evening with no luck (‘Maybe, you could try Niagara Falls’ it was suggested in one.) I asked at reception and no luck either. But just a while ago I found some pushed under my door from the motel reception. Nice.
I arrived at the motel at an early 2 pm in Hamburg. Hamburg is on the southern edge of Buffalo. Buffalo Wings i.e. chicken wings prepared with a vinegar based cayenne pepper sauce are so-called as they originated here in the Anchor Bar in 1964 as a quick mid-night snack. Buffalo thrived with the construction of the Erie Canal which linked the Hudson River with the Great lakes above the Niagara Falls.
After today’s cycle I noticed some play in the rear hub and was worried. At Mech Time (today from 5 till 6 when Gerard the mechanic is available for repairs etc) he whipped off the cassette and exposed the bearings in a flash. Sufficient grease all right but bearings are not seated perfectly. Also the evidence of quite an amount of moisture. More grease applied, reassembled and it’s sound as a rock just now. Wouldn’t want anything to go wrong with RW PACAT at this stage (or at any stage)
At Route rap this evening just before details of tomorrow’s route we had the presentation of prizes for July 4th decorations. 1st to Richard Walsh for an exquisite ensemble and he wore it all day. And I received my Faded Glory Tee-shirt. And don’t I look good in it!A lovely day to be out cycling and both terrain and weather conditions were perfect. I enjoyed every minute of it.
Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.
Heard Today: From another cyclist after the announcement of prizes “Well, there was always only going to be one winner there”


The hotel has no guest laundry so it was off down 5 blocks with the lot and all was sparkling again within the hour. I’m improving in these household chores…never too late to learn. The laundrette was beside Molly Brannigan’s irish pub and I went down there last night for the one drink I treat myself to on Rest Day. The owner is a Waterford man and the walls were decorated by the feats of recent years and of 1959, Ballygunner’s Munster title as well as Master McGrath and old local papers. Wasn’t I proud to see the victorious Wexford team of 1996 on the wall in full colour? A publican with good taste!
The bike, RW PACAT, badly needed a wash after the last few days and I replaced the chain. The old one was showing a bit of wear and would cause a more serious problem for the crankset and the cassette if left much longer. Am very pleased with this bike and hopefully there’ll be no problems between here and the end. End? I don’t like even contemplating the idea. I’ll miss the cycle and the group. There is an amazing positive dynamic among the 40 of us. One for all and all for one.
When I first spoke to others regarding this cycle in Sept 2007 I had the dream that it could attract a six-figure sum for Providence. At times since then my expectations have wavered but the dream still remains. My big thanks to those who committed even before a pedal was turned in San Francisco. They believed that I was really serious about this challenge. Hopefully, more will come on board to ensure that Providence continues to give these children a chance in life.
I reported last night that there was torrential rain in Niles and this morning the rain had stopped but the forecast was a gloomy one with 80% chance of thunderstorms. Everyone set off just in cycling shirts but with raingear at hand. Drops fell in the early stages but at mile 20 there was no option but to don the rain-cover.
It poured down incessantly for the next 50 miles but without the lightning. Be merciful for small mercies. Pulling out of the first SAG while it still poured down knowing that there was another 64 miles to go wasn’t appealing. Consolation in that you can get soaked only once.
Pulling into the second SAG at 70 miles things had eased off and all removed the raingear. The stop at the already crowded Richardson’s Rootbeer Stand and did some extra business. It was here that I phoned home to get the result of the Munster Final to be told that it had just finished with success for Tipp. Just about then, the sun broke through and gave the necessary heat to dry out our shirts as we continued on for the rest of the day. So good results do contribute to beneficial global warming. I relaxed feeling very happy. Sorry to hear that the minors lost.
As for the last few days I cycled alone to the first SAG but there was little opportunity to take photos with the rain. Suburban Niles was quiet at that hour of Sunday morning as I moved generally north-west assisted by a south south west wind. Between the SAGs I fell in with John, Amy and John Douglas and kept up a brisk pace for the forty miles. After the second SAG I cycled alone again as I wanted to capture something of the area on film.
In the early part I did spot a familiar store that has cropped up a few times along the route. Wonder what specials they have this week?
Shortly after second SAG I arrived at the state line with Pennsylvania and a photo opportunity. Luckily Audrey was coming close behind and we accommodated each other. Another state finished along the journey; we’re now in state 10. Pennsylvania is 1.5 times the size of Ireland and has a population of 12 million. It's often referred to as the Keystone State or the Quaker State. Its capital is not Philadelphia or Pitsburg but Harrisburg. It is amongst the top states for mushrooms, Christmas trees, battery chickens, milk, grapes and horses.
Corn storage silos have been along our route for ages with some of steel and some of pre-cast concrete. The invention of the corn silo allows the preservation of corn in the green state for feeding to livestock.Today I spotted one of solid blocks. Didn’t see too many of those before. Still seemed to be in excellent condition.
Some lovely houses along the road with most on open plan… no boundary fences or gates and very large heavy-maintenance lawns. Others (like the farmers place above) stood out with the picket fence about. One cyclist mentioned that they looked very Irish. I don’t know!
Coming into Erie had some echoes of California. We had not seen as many cyclists on the roads since early June on the west coast. It seems to be a popular pastime for young and old here. And cycle paths and bike lanes also. Also quite an amount of vines (and sour cherries) were being cultivated along our approach to Erie although the grapes are still quite small.
By 3.15 I had arrived at the Avalon Hotel right in the heart of Erie and noticed the Irish flag flying. Reception told me that they have quite a few Irish visitors staying here from time to time. I thought that it was just for me! Again I had made a century of the scheduled 97 miles. That’s 4 centuries now back to back.