At 9 am this morning, as already organised by phone during the week, I met with Bishop Ray Boland O’Brien of Kansas City and St Joseph who attended the Abbey in 1945/46. He heard through the grapevine that I was passing close so he drove up from Kansas City (1 hour) to meet me on the rest day and add support to the cause. I was thrilled to meet him and we spoke for a long period about the school then and now and about the town and his relations still in Tipp. With him came Jack Smith the editor of The Catholic Way and he interviewed me concerning the cycle, the Abbey India Project and Providence School. It will appear in an early July issue and a copy will be on its way to the Abbey
Just as they finished I got a tap on the shoulder and was asked by a TV journalist if I was Richard Walsh and that she, Ariane Aramburo, was here from KQTV, the local television station to conduct an interview. Again I spoke to her about the cycle and the Abbey India Project in front of the motel and it so happened other cyclists were out cleaning the bikes just then. The item may appear on their news this evening at 6. I hope all this extra exposure will ensure that Providence will benefit and the kids there will get a better opportunity. 
In the afternoon I went for a stroll down Frederick Boulevard for a break and I spotted a Mexican restaurant called Carlos O’Kelly ….. not a name you’d expect down Mexico way. A spell in the swimming pool followed to ease out any tension that may remain in the muscles.
All is now ready for The Heartlands Tour as far as Indianapolis starting tomorrow and continuing for the next 7 days.
PS: In fact the TV item did appear on the 6 pm News and a number of the group viewed it in the lobby. I'll try to get a copy from the station.
No adverse weather signs this morning as we loaded up the luggage and set out for another day’s cycle. We have now been cycling for 4 weeks with only 2 days off. Today was a mere 88 miles to St Joseph. As usual we set off into the rising sun through the up and down streets of Topeka.
In the city centre we crossed over the wide Kansas Riverin full flow, which eventually joins the Missouri. Some local connections with Topeka – it is referred to as the Golden City 
All day we were up and down but especially when we crossed into Missouri. These were serious rollers just like Tuscany. There was no relief on reaching the top, as I knew that it was going to start all over again. But a good number of the roads were sheltered with trees – very like yesterday. In Missouri especially, corn (maize) seemed to be the dominant crop
First SAG came after 30 miles and the next would be almost 40 miles further on. So bottles filled and the extra bananas and bars in the pocket after signing in.
I noticed more flowers today than on previous days. A good number, especially golden Aubretia but they were on down slopes and I was reluctant to stop to take a photo. All possible momentum was needed for the coming climb. I was making good progress without any tiredness or fatigue and had 40 miles (almost half way) done before Mass time in Kilfeacle. I felt quite pleased with myself and the day’s work. I should get to the motel before the hottest part of the day.
Not as many silos to be seen as a few days ago so I snapped this one – it might be the last one I’ll see for a while. Not right. They continued to crop up and in Atchinson our last town in Kansas there was the mother and father of a complex with silos lining the roadside for almost quarter of a mile.
At Atchinson I finally came to the Missouri and crossed it on a narrow but busy bridge. Usually at this time of the year, I am told, it is a mere trickle but the heavy rains up-country have ensured a strong flow and carrying plenty of silt. I believe crossing the Mississippi on Thursday will be a different matter.
Just across a photo opportunity presented itself at the Welcome to Missouri sign. Luckily Forrest was there at the same time and we accommodated each other with the cameras. Otherwise it would be difficult to capture that special moment. Missouri is referred to as the ‘Show-Me’ state and that appears on the car reg plates. One explanation is that Congressman Vandiver from Missouri in 1899 stated that he was not impressed by talk or eloquence ‘I’m from Missouri. You have got to show me’ Good yarn anyhow! So this is our 6th state. All the large square states are done. The other ones will topple in relatively quick succession. [Kansas is known as the Sunflower State]
All our cycling in Missouri today was on country roads and shadows could cover a hazard especially when wearing sunglasses. I got my first experience with dogs today. Two well-fed (I hope) animals suddenly ‘appeared out of nowhere’ and started snapping at my heels. No use in roaring ‘Suigh síos’ to those…they wouldn’t understand like the ones at home. The thought of canine teeth grinding against human bone enabled me to make a quick decision. Out of the saddle, big gear and pedal like hell. The plan worked and I left them for dead in about 20 yards. Sorry, that I have no photo. Didn’t seem to be a good idea to hang about. Still, over 2000 miles before I was treated like the proverbial postman. Not bad.
St Joseph was taken to be the gateway to the Wild West this due largely to the fact that it was the westernmost point in the United States accessible by rail until after the Civil War. During 1860, 1861 the Pony Express started here and transferred mail to Sacramento in California. I appreciate that distance now…June 2 to June 29 by bicycle on good roads. I wouldn’t fancy it cross country on a horse. In 1882 Jesse James was shot in his home here, now a museum and the hole in the wall made by the bullet is still to be seen. He was living under the alias ‘Mr Howard’ and the song records "...that dirty little coward that shot Mr. Howard has laid poor Jesse in his grave."
I cycled through the city’s Parkway, a 26 mile green-belt park that runs through the city. Wooded, peaceful and lots of sports facilities in certain areas. Just as I entered the Parkway there was an unexpected but welcome unofficial SAG sto organised bt Gerry and Sandra on their front lawn. Gerry is a keen cyclist and heard we were passing the way…lemonade, water, ice tea, trail mix, chairs etc. Thanks Gerry and Sandra, it came just at the right time. He was telling me that St Joseph is much greener this year than previously. Other years grass would just be turning brown at this stage.
I reached the Motel at 2.15 pm ahead of our luggage so the badly needed shower had to wait a while. The European Final was on the TV in the lobby but I was more excited to hear that Golden had beaten the Kickhams and qualified to take on Eire Og in the West semi. I also see that Taoiseach Brian Cowan is coming to New York on July 16. We’ll be in upstate new York that day. I suppose him joining us for a day is out of the question!
At set-out this morning everyone donned raingear as drops started to fall just as we were loading. It wasn’t as ugly-looking as yesterday morning but heavy black skies were all about. We had escaped yesterday so we couldn’t be as lucky again. As it turned out we were. I was given credit for bringing ‘the luck of the Irish’. Once I don’t bring ‘the weather of the Irish’, my well-being is safe. Within half-an-hour of leaving Abilene the rain-gear was discarded and we settled down to covering those miles. After 15 miles to the south of us fork-lightning was visible for a short period but didn’t interfere. The morning was cool and cloud cover was there till noon. And no wind worth talking about. A perfect day for a century.
Today we saw very little grain although there was plenty of young soya on either side. Grass rather than grain was the flavour of the day and the ripples on the landscape together with plenty of trees made it homely. In the distance the silhouette of grain silos looked like Norman castles or keeps
At the 56 mile mark today as I approached Eskridge I came to the half-way point of my trek from San Francisco to Providence. (marked on the profile with cross-hairs) I marked it with chalk on the road for posterity. It’s there for the next one to take on this challenge. Decision time? Would I go back or go on? That was a no-brainer. More adventures ahead to be experienced and all for the sake of the lads in Providence.
All of today we had some shelter from hedges and trees should the wind blow up. It added variation to the route wondering what might be around the next stand of trees. More birdsong to be heard than previously and on one occasion we .were followed for a long period by a beautiful golden song bird flitting from one side to the other of the road.
It was all up and down today but never a long grinding climb. After a short uphill it was give-her-holly on the down slope to build up a bit of momentum and free the muscles of lactic acid. And the road ahead looked like a mild roller-coaster as it stretched away. The navigation today was longer than other days as we were on country roads from start to finish. But reading the cue-sheet now has become very straight-forward for me.
It seems that the farms (ranches) around east Kansas tend to be family owned from my observation. Often enough, small places were situated by the roadside with the usual farm machinery about. And no sign of irrigation but the hollows in fields held small permanent lakes. Cattle around here are spared life in the feed-lots, for the time being at least.
I reached the Holiday Inn Motel in Topeka at 3.45 pm as the day was warming up. Only in the last hour did high temperatures become noticeable. They had been in the 70’s for most of the day.
Alarm went off at 6am and I decided that today I wanted to be finished before the big heat of the day arrived. Then I opened the door and was faced with a downpour of rain, howling wind and sheets of lightning. Heat now wasn’t an issue In thee breakfast room the TV was giving updates on the storm that was sweeping up over Kansas with the odd shot of flooding. Spirits were down a bit. Then on the other hand we had had 26 days of uninterrupted sunny pleasant warm weather. For me that doesn’t happen too often. So be grateful and complain not, man. . Sure, didn’t the bit of rain just ensure that we(those of us from Ireland, Wales and England) wouldn’t be homesick.
Back to the rooms and alter the dress for the day. At loading the raingear as well in evidence. Some even took a newspaper to add to protection. Fortunately as we pulled out from the Best Western onto Route 56 East the wind eased and rain stopped and not a sign of lightning. The storm had passed on, clouds were breaking and revealing some blue and things were looking up.
As we covered the first 11 miles we were heading due east with a strong wind hitting us hard on the right shoulder. But we were prepared to put up with it as we just knew things would change. There was plenty of evidence in the fields of the heavy rain last night. No need for irrigation today!
At the town of Canton our route turned due north with a strong tailwind and we knew that the rest of our route today was in that direction all the way to Abiline with the odd piece of road turning east or west for short periods. Now we cycled along country roads and it was a pleasure.
Still it was grain (some cut, some standing) and soya with plenty of greenery. By now, the sun had got the better of the clouds and the windbreaker that I had started out with, was off. Possibly that fear of the big heat wasn’t so far off the mark. As the wind was with us, better make use of it. I didn’t dare imagine what cycling against such a wind would be like. And it could happen over the space of 30 seconds. Make hay while the sun shines.
In so many places the fields (smaller that we have seen for the last few days) were surrounded with hedges and stands of trees. It was like a scene from home except for the long straight roads. Without scarcely pedalling we sailed along at 20 mph as the miles just kept mounting up on the odometer.
At 28 miles out we arrived at the official half-way point of the cycle to New Hampshire. Writing on the road marks the spot and many ceremonial photos were taken. Some lay down on the road, others straddled the line, some built a pyramid of bikers. For me it is not my half-way point; that happens when I clock up the 2000th mile tomorrow. I’ll have that occasion all for myself. That’ll be a pyramid of just one. Shouldn’t be a problem.
The SAG stop came shortly in the town of Gypsum. With O’Reillys Autocare in every large town and Gypsum today, a coachload of Cavan supporters (after been beaten by Meath!) must have ended up here years ago. Gypsum was quiet at this early hour of 9 am with 33 miles under our belt already.
Our SAG stop was at a gazebo in the city park where drivers also stopped to stretch their legs. Only one SAG today but it marked the half-way and cup cakes were on the menu to celebrate. The artistic squad had been up till the late hours formulating an appropriate design….and did a good job. Pity we had to do a demolition on it.
Within 6 miles of Abilene we ran into serious greyhound country with some very large kennels on both sides of the road (Old Route 40). And then there on the left was the HQ of the National Greyhound Association. It had vast kennels, runs, track and offices. I met Katie in the office and enquired about greyhounds in the locality. ‘Yes’, she said ‘you’ll see plenty more as you ride into town.’ Yea, she knew Pat Dalton (Golden) who comes there twice a year for the Spring and Fall meetings. She redirected me to the Greyhound hall of Fame in Abilene itself just across from the Eisenhower Centre. These were the first greyhounds I had seen since I’d left home.
I pedalled on into Abilene(wind in my back) and with the words of the George Hamilton IV song running through my head and hoping they were true
I arrive at the Greyhound Hall of fame and eventually stayed longer than I had planned. At reception I was greeted by the two resident dogs (retired racers who now only chase after your heart and afection). One was hobbling about with a bandaged foot (corns) and with satisfaction I learned that the other was called Abby. Serendipity. Of course there had to be a photo.
The extensive museum gave the history of greyhounds from the time of Ulysses and Argos. I was thrilled to see a full section on Master McGrath, the Waterford three times winner of the Waterloo Cup and a national icon. He was invited to appear before Queen Victoria (a greyhound owner herself) at Windsor Castle. He travelled over by train accompanied by his trainer John Walsh (probably called Sean by his friends!)
I next went to the Hall of Fame established in 1963 by the now National Greyhound Association to recognise great figures in greyhound racing. Both dogs and owners are inducted with suitable citations and is the highest honour in the game. 
Wasn’t I proud to see Pat Dalton of Golden up there with the greats? A full account of his greyhound career and his citation read ‘For outstanding contribution as a kennel operator, owner and breeder of racing greyhounds’ Come on Golden/Kilfeacle. Beside him was Don Cuddy of Raheny, Dublin (For outstanding contribution as internationally recognised trainer of racing greyhounds). A most interesting visit and anyony into greyhounds would really enjoy it. I said goodbye to Abby and came away.
On my way to the hotel (I had arrived in Abilene at noon and it was now well after 2 pm) I called into the Shamrock Gas Station (surely an interesting connection in here) and ended up having a great chat with Rev Charles Huse of Holy Spirit Ministry (USA). He gave me his life testimony and how he had gone preaching the Word of God in India (near Madras) in November 1999 (the same time as when I first went to Shillong). An interesting meeting, gave me his literature and appreciated what I was cycling for. After all that I finally arrived at Holiday Inn Express at 2.45 pm.
