DAY 39 of 54: JULY 9: INDIANAPOLIS (IN) TO RICHMOND (IN)

Time Zone : Eastern (GMT -5)
Todays Distance: 74 miles
Cycling time: 4 hrs 11 mins
Average Speed: 17.6 mph

Today’s cumulative ascent: 1543 ft

Average Heart rate: 122 bpm

Distance so far: 2833 miles

Ascent so far: 90,472 ft.
Centuries so far: 8
Punctures so far: 7
Today’s Profile:

Today’s Route:
Dedication: Today’s cycle is dedicated to two people I have never met but who have been of great assistance in doing this cycle for Providence…. Andrew Perry and Ted Wetherill.(cf below) Thank you. Here’s 74 miles just for you.


A tailwind and generally level terrain made for a fast satisfying ride today and prepares us for two big ones to come. Another bit of investigation to be done on a familiar named place.

Last night about 9 pm we had a very heavy lightning and thunderstorm in Indianapolis and some were caught out in it as they returned from dinner. I was glad to be in and only had to put up with the awful rattling of rain on the window. It had been well forecast. Surely it wouldn’t last all night and destroy today’s cycle!
Loading was conducted in the carpark at the rear of the hotel under dry but a very overcast sky. Wind was blowing and raingear was packed just in case. The atmosphere was very heavy ( or ‘high humidity’ here) and we knew perspiration would flow today although the sunshine never did become very strong.
Since our motel was in a central position, our early miles was straight through the centre of Indianapolis. Traffic was beginning to build up as we cycled from Maryland onto Washington and headed East. Washington turned into Route 40 and that led us directly to our motel in Richmond. Navigation was direct on that long stretch. Motorists in the city and all along the route are as friendly as you could ask for once we abide by the rules and are predictable and visible.
After 10 miles while we were on a slight detour around road construction Gary picked up his first flat of the day. Found the hole in the tube but could locate no offending object in the tyre despite close inspection. If it was a nail, the telephone pole beside us had a trophy cabinet of them. Apparently a popular spot for notices.
Any ascent or descent today was gradual and it was possible to maintain speed even on the uphill. We maintained a single paceline of four with Deb leading us out and tipped along at 20 to 24 mph. At one stage another group of 6 fell in behind and an impressive peleton swiftly ghosted across Indiana. All was progressing nicely till Gary had a relapse at the 20 mile mark. Another flat with the hole in the tube at the same spot. More microscopic inspection. The tiniest piece of stone ever was found embedded in the tyre. Apparently it was only when the tube was at 100 psi did the culprit do its damage. Another tube and it lasted for the day. From there on the four of us resumed and regained our previous speed.
SAG at the town of Dunreith at mile 40 meant we were well over the half-way point. A chance to refuel and swap the incidents of the morning so far. It was still only 9.30 am. This SAG was at a Post Office – a change from cemeteries. Another 34 miles and the day’s work would be done.

We cycled along Route 40 for the day. U.S. Route 40 is an east-west United States Highway. As with most routes whose numbers end in a zero, US 40 once traversed the entire United States. It is one of the original 1920s U.S. Highways, and it originally ran for 3022 miles from Atlantic City, New Jerseyto San Francisco, California. The route as marked on the map is not unlike our route as far as Pennsylvania as it displayed on my Providence shirt. Route 40 is still a designated highway (Route 66 lost its official designation in 1985) but now terminates as Route 40 at Park City, Utah.There were small towns every 10 miles or so (like Knightstown above) with services and some very old motels are still on the route. I spotted one – The Shamrock Motel. Didn’t look tremendously appealing at this stage.

Crops are becoming a little more varied. Corn is still there but not with blanket coverage. Plenty of trees on both sides and these small towns present a great display of flowers. I’ll check out tomorrow if this trend continues as we move on eastwards or is it just a local phenomenon.
Newspapers here are covering the effects of the economic downturn and the rise in gas prices. Petrol is now at $4.20 a gallon and TV ads are concentrating on offering cars that give 35 mpg as opposed to the 4X4 gas guzzlers. According to this morning’s front page headlines, gym memberships and the demand for plastic surgery have taken a dip.
After 52 miles I took time out to do a spot of investigation as we all arrived into the city of Dublin (population 700). I just had to spend some time here and see if there was a connection. No need for a detour as in the case of Tipperary, Missouri.
The first shop I encountered was McCarthy’s Mart with big green shamrocks in the window. I reckoned that I had hit mother lode. Unfortunately the people of the house were away in Oregon and the lady minding shop wasn’t local and knew nothing. There was no Information Office or Chamber of Commerce. There weren’t too many premises in business in which to enquire. I hadn’t too much time to spend here. The Post Office seemed a good bet. It usually is. The postmistress wasn’t local either but had always heard that the town had no connection with Dublin, Ireland. She had it that in the days before roads had all-weather surfaces, that this area was a perennial mud-hole on the road. The pioneers had to use two teams of horses to pull the covered-wagons through this particular part i.e. doubling-up and hence the name. Was a bit disappointed.
But it was a nice tidy town with the roadsides having been beautified and footpaths re-paved. A number of nurseries about and potted plants on sale. It was quiet and its many antique shops were still closed. So I continued for the last 20 miles on my own still keeping up a good pace.

In the dedication for today I mentioned two people who have been of great assistance. Andrew Perry (UK) did this cycle last year and I contacted him by e-mail as to what I could expect and any suggestion he would make based on his experience. My 6 line e-mail received two A4 pages of a response the very next morning. I knew he was passionate about this cycle. He encouraged me but was realistic. There would be down days. Keep a rein on expectations…it’s a long haul for body and bike. He stressed the need to take Multi-vitamins and Vitamin C considering that the body is burning in excess of 5,000 calories per day. Can’t drain the well completely in those early days. Thank you Andrew.
Ted Wetherill is from Providence, Rhode Island and has spent some time assisting in Providence, Shillong. He has been in constant touch by e-mail and of great assistance in suggesting a route from Portsmouth to Providence and he is co-ordinating those final days. I will finally meet him for the first time then. Thank you, Ted.
As our motel is on the east side of Richmond, the last few miles went through the centre of town. Its population is 40,000 and has had a strong music tradition especially jazz. Louis Armstrong recorded his first solo here in the Starr-Gennett Studios as did Hoagy Carmichael, Tommy Dorsey, Duke Ellington, Glen Millar and others. Richmond has a Glen Millar Park (194 acres) but is not connected with the band leader. Colonel John Millar was the original owner of the land and ‘Glen’ came from the topography of the area.Wilbur Wright, co-inventor of the airplane with his brother, Orville, attended school in Richmond, Indiana.

I finally arrived at the motel at 1.15 pm after another satisfying day.
I enjoyed the cycling in the group of four and also on my own. Being on my own affords the opportunity to investigate and to stop for interesting photos. It’s nice to do it now and again. There’s another century on the menu tomorrow and also on Friday. Need plenty of sleep and hydration tonight.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.