DAY 29: JUNE 29: TOPEKA(KS) TO ST JOSEPH (MO)

Time Zone : Central (GMT -6)
Todays Distance: 88 miles
Cycling time: 6 hrs 22 mins
Average Speed: 13.4 mph

Today’s cumulative ascent: 3391 ft

Average Heart rate: 121 bpm

Distance so far: 2136 miles
Ascent so far: 69,893 ft.
Centuries so far: 6
Punctures so far: 3

Today’s Profile:

Today’s Route:
Dedication: Today is for Cheteri and his team (not all in the photo) who efficiently look after the needs of the Abbey contingent during their periods in St Edmunds. God be good to ye.

Another good day’s cycling; another state and across a major river and the prospect of a rest day tomorrow
No adverse weather signs this morning as we loaded up the luggage and set out for another day’s cycle. We have now been cycling for 4 weeks with only 2 days off. Today was a mere 88 miles to St Joseph. As usual we set off into the rising sun through the up and down streets of Topeka.
In the city centre we crossed over the wide Kansas Riverin full flow, which eventually joins the Missouri. Some local connections with Topeka – it is referred to as the Golden City but a little bigger than Golden (pop 125,000). We couldn’t match that even with a West Final up in the field. Also the word ‘Topeka’ is a Kansas tribal name meaning “good place to grow potatoes” so it would be like Ballyporeen at home. These type of thoughts really set you in the mood for a long spell in the saddle.

I cycled alone today from the 10 mile marker. My usual Sunday cycle is done solo so this was no different. The rolling hills don’t make for great paceline work; each one just have to take them on at their own pace. No threar from the weather but generally we faced a headwind or side wind for the day. It wasn’t gale-force but I’d prefer one from the rear. To minimise the effect of the wind I spent most time on the drops (unusual for me) and felt that it was paying off especially up the hills. But , when I returned to putting my hands on top, I felt I had my hands raised high above me; that someone had interfered with the bike. Weird.
All day we were up and down but especially when we crossed into Missouri. These were serious rollers just like Tuscany. There was no relief on reaching the top, as I knew that it was going to start all over again. But a good number of the roads were sheltered with trees – very like yesterday. In Missouri especially, corn (maize) seemed to be the dominant crop
First SAG came after 30 miles and the next would be almost 40 miles further on. So bottles filled and the extra bananas and bars in the pocket after signing in.

I noticed more flowers today than on previous days. A good number, especially golden Aubretia but they were on down slopes and I was reluctant to stop to take a photo. All possible momentum was needed for the coming climb. I was making good progress without any tiredness or fatigue and had 40 miles (almost half way) done before Mass time in Kilfeacle. I felt quite pleased with myself and the day’s work. I should get to the motel before the hottest part of the day.
Not as many silos to be seen as a few days ago so I snapped this one – it might be the last one I’ll see for a while. Not right. They continued to crop up and in Atchinson our last town in Kansas there was the mother and father of a complex with silos lining the roadside for almost quarter of a mile.
At Atchinson I finally came to the Missouri and crossed it on a narrow but busy bridge. Usually at this time of the year, I am told, it is a mere trickle but the heavy rains up-country have ensured a strong flow and carrying plenty of silt. I believe crossing the Mississippi on Thursday will be a different matter.

Just across a photo opportunity presented itself at the Welcome to Missouri sign. Luckily Forrest was there at the same time and we accommodated each other with the cameras. Otherwise it would be difficult to capture that special moment. Missouri is referred to as the ‘Show-Me’ state and that appears on the car reg plates. One explanation is that Congressman Vandiver from Missouri in 1899 stated that he was not impressed by talk or eloquence ‘I’m from Missouri. You have got to show me’ Good yarn anyhow! So this is our 6th state. All the large square states are done. The other ones will topple in relatively quick succession. [Kansas is known as the Sunflower State]
All our cycling in Missouri today was on country roads and shadows could cover a hazard especially when wearing sunglasses. I got my first experience with dogs today. Two well-fed (I hope) animals suddenly ‘appeared out of nowhere’ and started snapping at my heels. No use in roaring ‘Suigh síos’ to those…they wouldn’t understand like the ones at home. The thought of canine teeth grinding against human bone enabled me to make a quick decision. Out of the saddle, big gear and pedal like hell. The plan worked and I left them for dead in about 20 yards. Sorry, that I have no photo. Didn’t seem to be a good idea to hang about. Still, over 2000 miles before I was treated like the proverbial postman. Not bad.

July 4th is fast approaching and fireworks are on sale in many temporary premises on the roadside. They were to be heard quite often as I passed through the suburbs of St Joseph. Stores are full of red,white and blue stars and stripes in preparation for Friday. There is a competition for the best turned out cyclist with the best turned out bike on the day. (See Seen Today below)
St Joseph was taken to be the gateway to the Wild West this due largely to the fact that it was the westernmost point in the United States accessible by rail until after the Civil War. During 1860, 1861 the Pony Express started here and transferred mail to Sacramento in California. I appreciate that distance now…June 2 to June 29 by bicycle on good roads. I wouldn’t fancy it cross country on a horse. In 1882 Jesse James was shot in his home here, now a museum and the hole in the wall made by the bullet is still to be seen. He was living under the alias ‘Mr Howard’ and the song records "...that dirty little coward that shot Mr. Howard has laid poor Jesse in his grave."
I cycled through the city’s Parkway, a 26 mile green-belt park that runs through the city. Wooded, peaceful and lots of sports facilities in certain areas. Just as I entered the Parkway there was an unexpected but welcome unofficial SAG sto organised bt Gerry and Sandra on their front lawn. Gerry is a keen cyclist and heard we were passing the way…lemonade, water, ice tea, trail mix, chairs etc. Thanks Gerry and Sandra, it came just at the right time. He was telling me that St Joseph is much greener this year than previously. Other years grass would just be turning brown at this stage.

I reached the Motel at 2.15 pm ahead of our luggage so the badly needed shower had to wait a while. The European Final was on the TV in the lobby but I was more excited to hear that Golden had beaten the Kickhams and qualified to take on Eire Og in the West semi. I also see that Taoiseach Brian Cowan is coming to New York on July 16. We’ll be in upstate new York that day. I suppose him joining us for a day is out of the question!

A god day’s cycling and I enjoyed having the road to myself. I wouldn’t do it every day. A new state; over the Missouri and a Rest day tomorrow. I think we deserve it. There will be an interesting blog tomorrow.
Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.


Seen Today: As part of the build-up for July 4th one banner store was advertising its wares on the roadside but I didn’t like the unsporting anti-Clare bias in their wording…. “DIRT CHEAP BANNERS”